Fish Soup with Bread and Rouille

1 large leek, green part coarsely chopped and white part cut into 1/4-inch pieces

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped

2 carrots, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, smashed

1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

1 1/4 pounds plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons canned tomato purée

2 cups dry white wine

1 1/2 quarts fish stock

1 8- to 9-inch unsliced round or oval pain au levain or sourdough loaf, crust discarded

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound skinned white fish fillets such as halibut, snapper, or bass, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups Rouille

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Make broth:

Wash green and white parts of leek separately in a bowl of cold water, then lift out with a slotted spoon and pat dry.  Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook leek greens, onion, celery, and carrots, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic and cook, stirring, 3 minutes.  Add saffron, bay leaves, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.  Add fresh tomatoes and tomato purée and cook, stirring, 4 minutes.  Add wine and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by about half, about 30 minutes.

Stir in stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes.  Carefully pour through a fine sieve into a bowl, then discard solids.

Prepare croûtes while broth simmers:

Heat oven to 300°F.  Heat a well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderately high heat until hot.  Brush bread with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then grill on all sides until grill marks appear.  Tear bread into rough 3-inch pieces and bake on a baking sheet in middle of oven until crisp outside but soft inside, about 10 minutes. Cool croûtes.

Heat butter in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook white part of leek, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add fish, hot broth, and salt and bring to a simmer (fish will be cooked through). Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 cup rouille.

Put croûtes in soup plates and ladle soup over. Sprinkle with oregano and parsley and serve remaining rouille on the side.

(Note: Broth can be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat broth before adding to white part of leek along with fish and rouille.)

Serves 6.

From Gourmet via Epicurious