Monday, April 12, 2021

Martin's Bagels, or Bagelettes

Poolish
1 1/4 cups + 2 tablespoons (166 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (198 grams) lukewarm water (75° to 80°F)
 
Dough
1 1/2 cups (340 grams) lukewarm water (see note below regarding water temperature)
5 1/2 cups (663 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 3/4 teaspoons (17 grams) salt
3/4 teaspoon instant yeast
 
Water Bath
2 tablespoons (43 grams) barley malt syrup
1 tablespoon (18 grams) salt
 
Toppings
Sesame seeds, coarse salt, dehydrated onion, poppy seeds, or everything bagel topping
 
To make the poolish:
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour and yeast.  Add the water, mixing until smooth.  Cover and let rest at room temperature for 2 to 8 hours.  (This broad time range is for both convenience and flavor.  More time will yield more flavor, but even a few hours will be enough to make a noticeable difference.)
 
To make the dough:
In a large mixing bowl, combine the poolish with the water, mixing by hand to break up the poolish.  Add the flour, salt, and yeast, stirring by hand or on low speed of a stand mixer until the dough forms a cohesive, shaggy, tacky mass.  Resist the urge to add more flour.
 
Place the dough in a bowl, cover, and allow it to rest for 2 hours, stretching and folding the dough over onto itself three or four times in the bowl after 1 hour.
 
Without touching the dough again, place the bowl in the refrigerator overnight, or for 8 to 12 hours.
 
The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator and leave it at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
 
Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces; if you have a scale, each piece will weigh about 114g.
 
Shape each piece into a tight ball, place on a lightly floured surface, then cover and let rest for 15 to 30 minutes.
 
To shape the bagels, use your fingers to poke a hole in the middle of each ball, gently expanding the hole until it is 2” to 3” in diameter.
 
Return the shaped bagels to the floured surface, cover them again, and allow them to rest for 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
While the bagels are resting, heat the oven to 475°F.  Line two pans with parchment and set aside.
 
To prepare the water bath:
Put 4” of water in a shallow (wide) 6-quart pot, then add the barley malt syrup and the salt.  Bring to a medium boil.
 
Carefully place three bagels at a time in the water bath.  Boil the bagels for 30 seconds on one side.  Using a slotted spoon, flip them over.  Boil the bagels for another 60 to 90 seconds.
 
Remove the bagels from the water, allowing them to drip dry for a few seconds before placing them 2” to 3” apart on the parchment-lined pan; you should be able to get six bagels per pan.
 
Sprinkle any toppings onto the bagels.  Alternatively, dip the bagels into a shallow bowlful of the toppings before returning to the parchment/pan.
 
Bake the bagels for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through if baking both sheets at once.  The bagels are done when the bottoms and sides are a deep mahogany brown and firm.
 
Remove the bagels from the oven and cool them on a rack. Store bagels at room temperature for up to one day, or wrap and freeze for longer storage.
 
Notes:
 
Water temperature:
Your desired water temperature depends on a few factors, but primarily the temperature of your home will have the most influence. If your home is cool (below 70°F), you’ll want to use warmer water (between 90°F and 110°F). If your home is on the warmer side (above 70°F), use water in the lukewarm range (75°F to 90°F).
 
Make ahead:
To shape bagels ahead of time and bake the following morning (to serve fresh for breakfast or brunch): Shape, place on a parchment-lined or cornmeal-dusted baking sheet, cover, and refrigerate. In the morning proceed with the recipe as written, boiling bagels immediately out of the refrigerator.
 
Makes 12 bagels.
 
From Breaking Bread: A Baker’s Journey Home in 75 Recipes by Martin Philip, via King Arthur Flour

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