Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Red Winter Minestrone with Winter Greens Pesto

For the Winter Greens Pesto (makes more than you need for soup):
Greens from 1 bunch beets
Greens from 1 bunch turnips
1 bunch kale
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 ounce parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Make Pesto:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set up a large bowl full of ice water.  Strip the beet greens, turnip greens, and kale from their coarse stems and wash them well.  Put each bunch, one at a time, into the boiling water, and cook until they turn bright green and fairly limp.  Use tongs to transfer immediately to the ice bath (where they can all swim together.)

Remove from the ice bath and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.  Puree the greens, olive oil, garlic, cheese, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a blender.  Taste and adjust seasoning, then reserve in the refrigerator, covered directly on the surface with plastic wrap.

For the Red Winter Minestrone:
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (divided)
1 white onion, finely diced or grated
2 roma tomatoes, or two canned tomatoes, finely chopped or grated (leave out skins if using fresh)
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 handful parsley leaves
1 pinch chili flakes
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced rosemary leaves
Kosher salt
1 leek, white and light green parts, cut into 1/2″ wide half-moons and well-washed
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1/8″ thick circles
1/2 pound turnips, peeled and cut into 1/3″ cubes
1/2 pound beets, peeled and cut into 1/3″ cubes
1 cup dry white wine
Handful of green beans, cut into 1″ lengths
2 cups canned or cooked white beans (cannelini or similar) – reserve canning liquid or 3 cups of the cooking liquid if you cooked them yourself
Lemon juice (optional)

In a big soup pot, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onion, tomato, garlic, parsley, chili flakes, bay leaf and rosemary and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.  Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium-low.  Keep cooking until you’ve got a well-caramelized, somewhat uniform base (sofrito).  This will probably take at least 20-30 minutes.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and the leeks, carrot, turnips and beets.  Raise heat to medium-high again.  Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.  Add the white wine and deglaze (scrape) the bottom of the pot with your spatula to dislodge any delicious browned bits.  Cook for 2 minutes to boil off most of the alcohol.  Add the green beans, white beans, and 3 cups of the bean cooking liquid and 2 cups of water (or, failing that, 5 cups of water).  Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for a few more minutes.  Taste and adjust seasoning.  It will certainly need more salt, and you might also like a squeeze of lemon juice.

Divide among heated bowls and serve with a generous dollop of the winter greens pesto, which can be stirred in.

Serves 4.

From Herbivoracious.com

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Chicken Stock

Yield: About 2 to 3 quarts of stock

Method 1: Leftover Chicken Bones
Leftover bones and skin from a cooked or raw chicken carcass
Celery (especially celery tops)
Onions
Carrot
Parsley
Salt
Pepper

Put the leftover bones and skin from a chicken carcass into a large stock pot.  Add vegetables like celery, onion, carrots, parsley.  Cover with water.  Add salt and pepper, about a teaspoon of salt, 1/4 tsp of pepper. 

Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to bring the stock to barely a simmer.  Simmer partially covered at least 4 hours, occasionally skimming off any foam that comes to the surface.

Remove the bones and vegetables with a slotted spoon, and strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve.  If making stock for future use in soup, you may want to reduce the stock by simmering an hour or two longer to make it more concentrated and easier to store.

Method 2: Chicken Stock with Raw Chicken Backs, Wings, and/or Legs
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 to 5 pounds of chicken backs, wings, and/or legs, skin-on, trimmed of excess fat, hacked with a cleaver into 2-inch pieces
1 large yellow onion, quartered (no need to peel)
1 large carrot, cut into 2-inch segments
Celery tops and 1 large celery rib, cut into 2-inch segments
1 bunch of parsley
Leek or green onion greens (optional)
1 bay leaf
6 quarts of cold water
1 tablespoon salt

Coat the bottom of a large stock pot (12 quart), with olive oil.  Place half of the chicken pieces, skin side down, in the bottom of the pot.  Heat on medium high, and let cook until the chicken is browned.  Add the rest of the chicken pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is no longer pink.

Add the onion, carrot, celery, parsley, leek greens (if using), and bay leaf to the pot.  Cover with 6 quarts of cold water.  Bring to a boil on high heat and reduce to a low simmer.  If scum rises to the surface of the pot (this usually happens in the first half hour of cooking), skim off with a large metal spoon. Let cook at a low simmer, uncovered, for 4 to 6 hours.

Use a large metal spoon with holes in it to ladle out the cooked chicken and vegetables and discard. (These aren't really good to eat because, after 4 hours of cooking, all of the nutritional value has been cooked out of them.)

Use a large sieve lined with dampened cheesecloth or a dampened paper towel (or, if using a very fine mesh sieve, no need to line), and place over a large bowl or another large pot. Pour the stock through the sieve into the bowl or pot to strain out any remaining solids.  Either pour into jars at this point or, if saving for later use, boil the stock on high heat for 1 hour, to reduce it by about half.

If you are freezing, you may want to ladle off some of the excess fat on the surface (the fat helps preserve the stock in the fridge, but doesn't help it in the freezer).   If freezing, leave at least 1-inch head space, allowing enough room for the liquid stock to expand as it freezes solid.

Let the stock cool in the sealed jars completely before freezing.  Stock should last a week or so in the fridge, and several months in the freezer.

Method 3: Quick Chicken Stock
Olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
4 pounds of chicken backs, wings, and/or legs, hacked with a cleaver into 2-inch pieces
2 quarts of boiling water
2 teaspoons of salt
2 bay leaves

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large stock pot.  Add chopped onion.  Sauté until softened and slightly colored, 2 to 3 minutes.  Transfer to a large bowl.

Add half of the chicken pieces to the pot.  Sauté until no longer pink, about 4 to 5 minutes.  Transfer cooked chicken to bowl with onions.  Sauté the rest of the chicken the same way.  Return onion and chicken pieces to the pot. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken releases its juices, about 20 minutes.

While the chicken pieces are cooking, fill a large tea kettle with 2 quarts of water, and bring to a boil.

After the chicken pieces have been cooking for 20 minutes, raise the heat level to high, add the 2 quarts of boiling water, salt, and bay leaves.  Return to a low simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, then cover and barely simmer for about 20 minutes.

Strain stock through cheesecloth or paper towel-lined large sieve, and discard solids (it helps to remove the big pieces of bone with a slotted spoon first).  Pour into jars and let cool, before putting into the refrigerator.  Stock will last a week or so in the refrigerator or frozen for several months.

From SimplyRecipes.com

Vanilla Egg Cream

2 tablespoons Vanilla Simple Syrup
4 ounces cold whole milk
4 ounces cold seltzer

In a tall glass, mix together vanilla simple syrup, milk, and seltzer; stir well to combine.  Serve immediately.

Serves 1.

From Martha Stewart website

Vanilla Simple Syrup

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1/2 vanilla bean (optional)
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract (decrease to 1 teaspoon if using vanilla bean)

Bring sugar and 1 cup water to boil in a saucepan over medium heat.  If desired, split vanilla bean in half and scrape seeds into water.  Cook, stirring, until sugar has dissolved.  Let cool completely.  Remove vanilla bean, if using.  Stir in vanilla extract.


Makes 1 1/2 cups. 


From Martha Stewart website

Kali Dal

1 cup (250 grams) whole black urad dal
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2-inch piece of ginger, roughly chopped
1 green chili, roughly chopped
1/4 cup oil
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons garam masala
2/3 cup cream

Put the dal in a large, heavy-based saucepan, add 8 cups water and bring to the boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, or until the dal feels soft when pressed between the thumb and index finger; most of the dal will split to reveal the creamy insides.  Drain the dal, reserving the cooking liquid.

Blend the onion, garlic, ginger, and chili together in a food processor to form a paste.  Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the onion mixture over high heat, stirring constantly, until golden brown.  Add the cumin and coriander and fry for 2 minutes.  Add the dal and stir in the salt, chili powder, and garam masala.  Pour 1 1/4 cups of reserved dal liquid into the pan, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.  Just before serving, stir in the cream and simmer for another 2 minutes to heat through.

Serves 6.

From A LittleTaste of India by Priya Wickramasinghe and Carol Selva Rajah

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Sheermal

400 ml (1 2/3 cup) milk
3 tablespoons sugar
1 drop kewra water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
450 g flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
A pinch of baking powder
120 grams ghee, melted, plus 2 tablespoons for brushing
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
2 pinches of saffron strands, soaked in 1 tablespoon of hot water

Heat the milk in a saucepan until warm, then add the sugar and stir until it dissolves completely.  Add the kewra water and remove from the heat.  Allow to cool, then add the salt.

Mix the flour in a mixing bowl with the melon seeds/pepitas, ground cardamom, and baking powder.  Add the cooled milk and mix well.  Mix into a very soft dough, then cover with a damp cloth and set aside for at least 15 minutes.

Remove the cloth and knead the dough again.  Add the ghee into the dough, little by little, and incorporate it using your fingers.  Store it in a cool place again for 15 minutes to allow it to firm up.  Divide the dough equally into 16 pieces.  Cover and chill in the fridge for another 10 minutes.

Heat oven to 350 F. 

Roll out the balls into circles 4 inches in diameter and 1/10 of an inch.  Prick all over with a fork.  Arrange on a greased baking sheet, sprinkle with poppy seeds on top, and bake in oven for 10-12 minutes.  Remove from the oven, brush with the saffron solution, and bake for a further 5-8 minutes.  Serve immediately, brushed with melted ghee.

Makes 16.

From Spice at Home by Vivek Singh

Cardamom-Scented Custard with Diced Fruit

1 tablespoon sugar
Juice of 1/2 lime
300 g (2/3 pound) mixed chopped fruit (apples, pears, grapes)
Mint leaves, chopped (optional)

900 ml (3 3/4 cups) whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthways
4 green cardamom pods, crushed
2 egg yolks
40 g sugar

Stir together sugar and lime juice.  Mix the chopped fruit in a bowl, add the lime syrup, and mint if desired, and stir to coat the fruit thoroughly.  Set aside to chill in the refrigerator.

Pour the milk into a non-stick saucepan (large enough to prevent it boiling over).  Heat almost to boiling point, then turn down to a simmer and cook for 25-30 minutes until there is 300 ml (1 1/2 cups) left.  Add the vanilla pod and crushed cardamom to the milk and allow to just come to a boil, then take the pan off the heat and leave to infuse for 30 minutes.  Beat the egg yolks with the sugar in a large bowl.

Remove the whole spices from the pan of milk and discard.  Reheat the milk until hot, then pour the hot milk over the egg yolks, whisking vigorously.  When completely mixed in, place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir over low heat for 10-12 minutes until the mixture thickens sufficiently to coat the back of a spoon.

Pour into a serving bowl, allow to cool, and serve chilled with the fruit.

Serves 4.

From Spice at Home by Vivek Singh

Saturday, October 1, 2016

Whipped Cream Frosting

2 tablespoons unflavored powdered gelatin
2 cups plus 6 tablespoons milk
1/2 cup cornstarch
6 tablespoons sugar
4 cups heavy cream, chilled
6 tablespoons flavored liqueur
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Sprinkle gelatin over 6 tablespoons milk in a bowl.  Let sit until gelatin softens, about 5 minutes.  Whisk cornstarch and sugar in a 2 quart saucepan; add remaining milk, and heat over medium heat.  Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens to the consistency of very thick pudding.  Transfer to a food processor along with gelatin mixture; process until smooth.  Transfer gelatin mixture to a large bowl.  Place cream, 4 tablespoons liqueur, and vanilla, in the bowl of a stand mixture fitted with a whisk.  Beat on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form.  Add 1/3 of the whipped cream to the gelatin mixture; stir until smooth.  Add remaining whipped cream, and gently fold with a rubber spatula until evenly combined.

Makes enough frosting to fill and cover a 3-layer 9-inch cake.

From Saveur

Chocolate Genoise

3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
Pinch of salt
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup cake flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup alkalized (Dutch-process) cocoa powder

Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round cake pan or 9-inch springform pan, then line the bottom with parchment paper and grease the paper.

Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.  

Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to a boil over high heat.  Lower the heat so the water is simmering.

Whisk the eggs, yolks, salt, and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer.  Place over the pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture is just lukewarm, about 100 degrees (test with your finger).  Attach the bowl to the mixer and, with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until the egg mixture is cooled (touch the outside of the bowl to tell) and tripled in volume.  The egg foam will be thick and will form a slowly dissolving ribbon falling back onto the bowl of whipped eggs when the whisk is lifted. 

While the eggs are whipping, stir together the flour, cornstarch, and cocoa powder.  

Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the beaten eggs.  Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour mixture, making sure to scrape all the way to the bottom of the bowl on every pass through the batter to prevent the flour mixture from accumulating there and making lumps.  Repeat with another third of the flour mixture, and finally with the remainder.  

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake the genoise for about 25 minutes, or until well-risen, deep gold, and firm to the touch.

Immediately use a small paring knife to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan.  Invert the cake onto a rack, the re-invert onto another rack and let the cake cool right side up on the paper.  Remove the paper when the cake is cool.

Storage: Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for several days or double-wrap and freeze for up to a month.

Makes one 9-inch round layer.


From Perfect Cakes by Nick Malgieri

Plain Genoise

3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
Pinch of salt
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup cake flour
1/4 cup cornstarch

Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round cake pan or 9-inch springform pan, then line the bottom with parchment paper and grease the paper.

Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.  

Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to a boil over high heat.  Lower the heat so the water is simmering.

Whisk the eggs, yolks, salt, and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer.  Place over the pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture is just lukewarm, about 100 degrees (test with your finger).  Attach the bowl to the mixer and, with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until the egg mixture is cooled (touch the outside of the bowl to tell) and tripled in volume.  The egg foam will be thick and will form a slowly dissolving ribbon falling back onto the bowl of whipped eggs when the whisk is lifted. 

While the eggs are whipping, stir together the flour and cornstarch.  

Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the beaten eggs.  Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour mixture, making sure to scrape all the way to the bottom of the bowl on every pass through the batter to prevent the flour mixture from accumulating there and making lumps.  Repeat with another third of the flour mixture, and finally with the remainder.  

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake the genoise for about 25 minutes, or until well-risen, deep gold, and firm to the touch.

Immediately use a small paring knife to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan.  Invert the cake onto a rack, the re-invert onto another rack and let the cake cool right side up on the paper.  Remove the paper when the cake is cool.

Storage: Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for several days or double-wrap and freeze for up to a month.

Makes one 9-inch round layer.


From Perfect Cakes by Nick Malgieri

Mango and Cucumber Raita

2 cups plain yogurt
2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
2 ripe mangoes, diced
2 small seedless cucumbers, diced
1 tablespoon ghee
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
2 diced red chillies or 1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
Chopped cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)

Combine yogurt with sugar, and mix until sugar dissolves.  Add the diced mangoes and cucumbers.  

Melt the ghee in a small pan.  Add the mustard seeds and fry until they pop.  Add the red chillies and fenugreek seeds and fry for 30 seconds.

Strain the ghee, discarding the solids.  Stir the ghee into the yogurt mixture.  Garnish with cilantro leaves if desired.

Serves 3.

From Veg Recipes of India website, with minor changes

Shorba

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
2 cloves
2 green cardamom pods
1/2-inch cinnamon stick
1/2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 green chillies, chopped
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon ghee
1 cup vegetable stock (or water and additional salt)
1/2 teaspoon chilli powder
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/4 teaspoon garam masala
1 tablespoon yogurt, whisked
Salt to taste

For tarka:
1 teaspoon oil
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

3-4 mint leaves, finely chopped

Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a thick-bottom pan over medium heat.  Add the bay leaf, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon; stir over low heat until fragrant.  Add the ginger, garlic, green chillies, tomatoes, and onion.  Stir to combine.  Cook over low heat until soft.  Remove from heat.  Allow the mixture to cool a bit, then puree in food processor or blender.

Melt ghee over medium heat in the same pan.  Add the pureed mixture.  Stir and cook for a few seconds.  Add vegetable stock, as well as chilli powder, turmeric, and garam masala.  Let the mixture simmer for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the yogurt and stir until combined.  Season to taste with salt.  Bring mixture to a boil, then remove from heat.  (Can be strained through a colander if desired for smoother texture.)

Make the tarka: Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a small pan.  Add the cumin seeds.  When the cumin seeds sizzle, turn off the heat.  

Transfer shorba to a serving dish.  Pour the tarka over the shorba.  Garnish with mint leaves.  Serve warm with biryani or other rice dish.

Serves 6.

From The Urban Spice website

Lamb Biryani

2 pounds 4 ounces boneless lamb leg or shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

Marinade:
3 inch piece of ginger, grated
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tablespoons garam masala
1/2 teaspoon chilli powder
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
4 green chillies, finely chopped 
2/3 cup chopped cilantro leaves 
1/4 cup chopped mint leaves
1 cup plain yogurt

2 1/2 cups basmati rice

1/2 teaspoon saffron strands
2 tablespoons hot milk

1/2 cup oil
4 1/2 ounces ghee or unsalted butter
4 onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup plain yogurt

1 1/3 cups wholewheat flour
1 teaspoon salt

Mix the lamb in a bowl with the marinade ingredients.  Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight.

Wash the rice in a sieve under cold running water until the water from the rice runs clear.  Place in a bowl, add water to cover, and soak for 1 to 4 hours.

Soak saffron strands in hot milk.

Heat the oven to 425°F.

Heat oil and ghee or butter in a heavy-based pot, add the onion, and fry for 10 minutes or until golden.  Drain through a sieve, reserving the oil and ghee.  

Remove the lamb from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and fry in batches in a little of the oil and ghee until browned, reserving 2 tablespoons of the oil and ghee mixture.  Put browned lamb in pot with onion, remaining marinade, and additional 1/2 cup yogurt. Cook over low heat for 30-40 minutes, or until the lamb is tender.  Season with additional salt if needed to taste.

In a separate saucepan, boil enough water to cover the rice.  Drain the rice and add it to the pan.  Return the water to the boil, cook the rice for 5 minutes, then drain well and spread the rice evenly over the meat in the large pot.  Pour reserved 2 tablespoons of the oil/ghee over the rice and then drizzle with the saffron and milk.

To make the sealing dough: make a dough by mixing the flour and salt with a little water.  Roll the dough into a sausage shape and use it to seal the lid onto the rim of the pot, pressing it along the rim where the lid meets the pot.  Put the pot over high heat for 5 minutes to bring the contents to the boil, then transfer it to the oven for 40 minutes.  Remove the pot from the oven and break the seal of dough.

Serves 6. 

From A Little Taste of India by Priya Wickramasinghe and Carol Selva Rajah, with changes