Friday, November 27, 2020

Perfect Chocolate Biscuits

100 grams dark chocolate
150 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature
130 grams granulated sugar
70 grams Lyle's golden syrup
215 grams unbleached all-purpose flour
45 grams cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Start by roughly chopping the chocolate into shards of the size you'd like to find in a biscuit.

Put the butter in the bowl of a mixer and beat briefly to soften, then add the sugar and syrup and beat on a medium speed for about 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl as necessary, until fluffy.

Meanwhile, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, and salt.  With the mixer running on a low speed, add the dry ingredients and continue mixing until everything comes together into a dough.

Roll into a sausage shape about 2 inches in diameter.  Wrap well and chill for at least 30 minutes and up to 10 days.

Heat the oven to 350°F and line two baking trays with parchment paper.  Cut the dough sausage into thin rounds and arrange, fairly well spaced apart, on the trays.  Bake for 25 minutes for crisp biscuits, 15 minutes for squidgy biscuits, or 20 minutes for something in between.  Leave to cool on the baking tray.

Recipe from Felicity Cloake in The Guardian

Crispy Sage and Garlic Butter

2 tablespoons plus 6 tablespoons
1-2 cloves garlic, lightly smashed
8 fresh sage leaves

Heat 2 tablespoons butter, the garlic and sage in a small skillet over medium heat.  Cook until the butter begins to brown and the sage is crisp, about 3-4 minutes.  Puree the browned butter, sage, and garlic with the remaining 6 tablespoons butter.

Makes 1/2 cup.

From Half Baked Harvest blog

Sweet Potato and Herbed Goat Cheese Gratin with Chipotle

3 cups heavy cream    
1 tablespoon chipotle puree (or 1 canned chipotle pepper)
4-5 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced very thin
4 or 8 ounce package herbed goat cheese, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 350°F. 

In a blender, puree the cream and chipotle until smooth.

In a 10x10-inch baking dish, arrange a fourth of the sweet potatoes, season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with one fourth of the crumbled goat cheese, and pour a fourth of the cream over all.  Repeat with remaining potatoes, cheese, and cream, forming 4 layers.  

Bake for 1 hour, or until the cream has been absorbed and the potatoes are browned.  (May be prepared up to 1 day ahead, covered and refrigerated.  To serve, reheat in a 350°F oven for 12 minutes.)

Serves 8 to 10.

From Bold American Food by Bobby Flay

Brussels Sprouts, Apple, and Pomegranate Salad

1/2 large red onion, diced small
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons ground sumac
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to season salad
2 cups shredded brussels sprouts
1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds (from about 1/2 a large one)
1/2 a large, tart, peeled apple, cored and diced
Juice of half a lemon, plus more to taste
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons honey, plus more to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
Ground chipotle chile pepper, hot smoked paprika, or another chile flake, to taste
 
Make the sumac-pickled onions:
Combine red onion, wine vinegar, sumac and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt in a small dish and set aside while you prepare the other ingredients, or ideally at least 15 minutes.
 
Combine all salad ingredients, including red onions and their pickling liquid, in a medium bowl and season to taste with salt and red pepper. Taste and adjust ingredients as desired.
 
This salad can be prepped ahead, but keep the dressing off of it until at most an hour before serving so it doesn’t discolor the sprouts.
 
Serves 4 to 6.
 
From Smitten Kitchen blog

Apple-Herb Cornbread Stuffing

6 cups cubed cornbread (about 1-inch cubes)
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large sweet onion, chopped small
1 large or 2 small stalks celery, diced small
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon table salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large or 2 small firm, tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored and diced small
1/4 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 sage leaves, minced
1/2 to 1 cup vegetable, chicken, or turkey stock or broth
1 large egg
 
Position rack in center of oven and heat to 350°F. Spread cornbread cubes in single layer on large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until pale golden, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool in pan while you prepare the other ingredients.
 
Generously butter a 2-quart baking dish (a 9×5-inch loaf pan, 8- or 9-inch square dish, etc.) with 1 tablespoon butter. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion, thyme, salt, and lots of freshly ground black pepper, and cook for 2 minutes, until becoming translucent. Add celery and cook for 2 more minutes. Add apple and sautĂ© until a bit tender, 3 to 4 minutes more.
 
Place toasted cornbread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Scrape contents of skillet on top. Whisk egg and 1/2 cup stock together and pour over. Stir in parsley and sage. Spoon into prepared pan. If mixture looks a little dry, pour remaining 1/2 cup broth over it. (This is a good place to pause, if needed. Nothing bad comes of the stuffing absorbing the liquids for longer.) Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until brown on top and no liquid appears if you insert a knife vertically into the center of the stuffing pan and turn it slightly. Serve immediately, or reheat as needed.
 
From Smitten Kitchen blog, with some changes

Make-Ahead Vegetarian Chipotle Gravy

1 tablespoon vegetable oil or butter
1 large onion, peeled, coarsely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled, coarsely chopped
2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
1 apple, peeled, coarsely chopped
A small handful of rosemary, thyme, and/or bay leaves
1 cup cider or dry white wine
6 cups (or more) vegetable stock (can also use chicken or turkey stock for non-vegetarian gravy)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons chipotle puree
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
 
Heat oil or butter in a large saucepan over medium-high. Cook onion, carrot, celery, and apple, stirring often, until everything in pan is deeply browned, 14–16 minutes. Add herbs and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in cider or wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of pan. Bring to a boil and cook until liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add stock and return to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by a third, 35–40 minutes.
 
Strain fortified stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl. (You should have about 4 cups. If you don’t, add enough stock or water to get you there.) Discard solids. Keep fortified stock warm while you make your roux.
 
Heat 3 tablespoons unsalted butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, until roux is golden brown and looks smooth and shiny, about 4 minutes.
 
Whisking constantly, ladle fortified stock into roux, pouring in gradually and making sure to incorporate each addition before adding more. Simmer, whisking often, until gravy is thickened and reduced to about 3 cups (it should coat a spoon), 8-10 minutes. Whisk in chipotle puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
 
Gravy can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat over low before serving.
 
Serves 8.
 
From Bon Appetit, with changes

Buttermilk-Brined Roast Chicken

1 chicken, 3 1/2 to 4 pounds
Kosher salt or fine sea salt
1 teaspoon cayenne (optional)
2 cups buttermilk
 
The day before you want to cook the chicken, remove the wingtips by cutting through the first wing joint with poultry shears or a sharp knife. Reserve for stock if desired. Season chicken generously with salt and let it sit for 30 minutes.
 
Stir 2 tablespoons kosher salt or 4 teaspoons fine sea salt into the buttermilk to dissolve. Place the chicken in a gallon-size resealable plastic bag and pour in the buttermilk. (If the chicken won’t fit in a gallon-size bag, double up two plastic produce bags to prevent leakage and tie the bag with a piece of twine.)
 
Seal the bag, squish the buttermilk all around the chicken, place on a rimmed plate, and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. If you’re so inclined, over the next 24 hours you can turn the bag so every part of the chicken gets marinated, but that’s not essential.
 
Pull the chicken from the fridge an hour before you plan to cook it. Heat the oven to 425°F, with a rack set in the center position.
 
Remove the chicken from the plastic bag and scrape off as much buttermilk as you can without being obsessive. Tightly tie together the legs of the chicken with a piece of butcher’s twine. Place the chicken in a 10-inch cast iron skillet or shallow roasting pan.
 
Slide the pan all the way to the back of the oven on the center rack. Rotate the pan so that the legs are pointing toward the rear left corner and the breast is pointing toward the center of the oven. (The back corners tend to be the hottest spots in the oven, so this orientation protects the breast from overcooking before the legs are done.) Pretty soon you should hear the chicken sizzling.
 
After about 20 minutes, when the chicken starts to brown, reduce the heat to 400°F and continue roasting for 10 minutes.
 
Move the pan so the legs are facing the right rear corner of the oven. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes or so, until the chicken is brown all over and the juices run clear when you insert a knife down to the bone between the leg and the thigh. If the skin is getting too brown before the chicken is cooked through, use a foil tent. 
 
When the chicken’s done, remove it to a platter and let it rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving.
 
Serves 4.
 
Recipe by Samin Nosrat via NYT Cooking, with one change

Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Banana Toffee Cake

For cake:
1/2 cup (4 ounces or 115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
1/4 teaspoon fine sea or table salt
1/2 cup (95 grams) packed dark brown sugar
6 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon molasses or treacle
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs
2/3 cup (170 grams) mashed bananas (2 medium bananas, or about 12 ounces unpeeled)
1/2 cup (120 ml) buttermilk, well-shaken
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 3/4 cups (230 grams) all-purpose flour
 
For topping:
4 tablespoons (2 ounces or 55 grams) unsalted butter, cold is fine
1 cup (235 ml) heavy cream, divided (half for sauce, half for whipping)
1/2 cup (95 grams) dark brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt plus more to finish
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
 
Make cake:
Heat oven to 350°F.  Coat 12 standard muffin cups (or an 8x8-inch square or 9-inch round pan) with butter or with nonstick spray.  In a large bowl, whisk together butter, salt, brown sugar, granulated sugar, molasses, and vanilla until combined.  Add mashed banana and whisk again.  Add eggs and whisk until incorporated, then buttermilk.  Sprinkle baking soda and baking powder on batter and whisk until combined and then (don’t skip this), whisk 10 to 20 more times, ensuring that it is very well dispersed in the bowl.  Add flour and mix only until it disappears.  Divide batter between 12 cups, or spread in pan.  Bake 14 to 16 minutes (or 25 to 27 minutes for square or round pan), until a toothpick inserted into the cakes comes out batter free.
 
While the cakes bake, make the toffee sauce:
Combine butter, 1/2 cup of the heavy cream, and sugar in a larger saucepan than you think you’ll need over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer.  Simmer, whisking frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes — the mixture thickens slightly.  Add a couple pinches of salt and vanilla.
 
And whipped cream:
In a medium-large clean bowl, beat remaining 1/2 cup heavy cream with an electric or you-powered whisk until it forms soft peaks.  Don’t add sugar to this; I promise it does not need it.
 
To serve:
Remove one warm cake from the muffin tin and either plate it dome side-up or you can cut the dome off the cake with a serrated knife and serve the cake upside-down.  If baked in one pan, allow to cool a bit before cutting into slices.  Ladle the cake generously with the toffee sauce, finish with a big dollop of the cream and a few flakes of sea salt.  Repeat with remaining cakes.
 
The sauce keeps for a week or two; it can be reheated in about 20 seconds in the microwave, just until it liquefies, or back on the stove in a small saucepan.  The cake keeps for 3 to 4 days at room temperature in an airtight container before seeming stale.  If you can gently rewarm it before serving, all the better.
 
Serves 12.
 
From SmittenKitchen.com

Sunday, November 15, 2020

Stuffed Pastries with Lemon-Milk Glaze (Kanti)

For pastry dough:
1 1/4 cups (150 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons melted ghee or unsalted butter
About 1/3 cup water

For filling:
1 1/2 cups (130 grams) grated fresh coconut or (215 grams) frozen coconut, defrosted
1/2 cup (110 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons finely chopped raisins
2 tablespoons finely chopped dried apricots
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds
3 ounces (85 grams) khoa (purchased, or made from 2 cups milk)

For glaze:
1/3 cup (30 grams) confectioner's sugar
1/2 tablespoon strained lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/2 tablespoons milk

Canola oil for frying

Place the flour, salt, 1/4 teaspoon sugar, and baking soda in a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Pulse three times.  Add the ghee or butter and process for 8-10 seconds or until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  (To mix by hand, combine the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Using your fingers, cut in the ghee or butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.)  With the processor running, add the water in a slow stream just until the dough holds together; do not process for more than 40 seconds.  You want a firm dough, not one that is soft or wet.  Transfer the dough to a piece of plastic wrap and form into a smooth ball.  Wrap tightly and set aside while making the filling and glaze.

Combine the coconut, sugar, fruit, 1 teaspoon of lemon zest, and cardamom seeds in a nonstick frying pan and cook until the mixture is dry and sticky.  Remove the pan from the heat and cool to room temperature.  If the khoa is firm, shred it through the large holes of a hand grater; if it is soft, crumble it into small bits.  Add the khoa to the coconut mixture and blend well.  Divide filling into 14 portions and mold them into patties.  Set aside, covered with plastic wrap.

Combine the confectioner's sugar, lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest, and milk in a small bowl and mix until smooth.

To make the stuffed pastries, divide the dough into 28 pieces.  Roll them into smooth balls and cover with a damp towel.  One by one, pat each ball into a patty, dip it in flour on both sides, and roll it into an evenly thick round about 3 1/2 inches in diameter.  Place a portion of the filling in the center, easing it to within 1/2-inch of the edges.  Dip your finger in water and moisten the 1/2-inch border.  Place another pastry round over the filling and press well to seal the edges.  Pleat by hand or press the edges with a fork.  (If the edges are not well-sealed, the filling will ooze out during frying.)  Set aside on a wax-paper-lined cookie sheet and roll, fill, and seal the remaining pieces.

Pour oil to a depth of 2 inches in a deep-frying vessel.  Place over moderate heat until the temperature reaches about 360°F.  Carefully, slip in 4 pastries or as many as will float on the surface without crowding.  The temperature will fall to about 330°F.  Slowly raise the temperature again to 360°F and fry until the pastries are golden brown on both sides.  

Transfer the pastries to paper towels to drain.  Fry the remaining pieces and, while still warm, brush the tops with the glaze.

Makes about 14 pieces.

From Lord Krishna's Cuisine by Yamuna Devi

Cardamom-Flavored Caramel Milk Fudge (Vrindavan Pera)

 2/3 cup (100 grams) brown or maple sugar
12 ounces (340 grams) khoa (purchased, or made from 8 cups/2 liters milk)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) honey or golden syrup
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon (5 ml) unsalted butter or ghee

Place the sugar in a coffee mill or blender and grind to a powder.  Combine all of the ingredients on a marble slab or countertop and knead until smooth and sticky.  Gather the mass together with a spatula and transfer to a large, heavy-bottomed nonstick frying pan.  Place over moderate heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens into a soft ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan.  

Scrape the pera mixture onto a plate and cool until it is easy to handle.  Wash and dry your heads and rub them with a film of oil.  Divide the fudge into 24 portions and roll each into a smooth ball.  While still warm, press into decorative molds and set on waxed paper.  When cool, store in airtight container, refrigerated, for up to 4 days.

Makes about 24 pieces.

From Lord Krishna's Cuisine by Yamuna Devi

Shakarpara

For the pastry:
1 1/2 cups (200 grams) all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
3 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) ghee or unsalted butter
1/4 cup (50 ml) water
Canola oil 

For the sugar syrup:
Generous 1 cup (200 grams) sugar
1/2 cup (100 ml) water

To decorate:
1 tablespoon freshly ground cardamom seeds
1 tablespoon dry unsweetened coconut

Begin by making the pastry.  Sift the flour and salt together into a bowl.  Add the ghee or butter and knead with your hands, adding enough of the water to make a firm dough.  Cover the dough with a damp tea towel and set aside at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into two pieces, then roll each piece out on a lightly floured work surface into a large, thin, round circle, about 1/16 of an inch thick.  Cut into horizontal strips, then cut across the other way to make small diamond shapes.

Heat the oil for deep-frying in a wok to 350°F, or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds.  When the oil is hot, turn the heat to low and carefully drop batches of the pastry pieces into the hot oil and fry for 2-4 minutes, until light brown all over.  Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.  Continue until all the pastries have been cooked.

To make the sugar syrup, heat the sugar and water together in a saucepan until the sugar has dissolved.  Cook to 240°F, or double-thread stage (see note below).

When the syrup is ready, toss the pastries into the syrup and stir thoroughly until they are coated.  As the sugar syrup dries around the pastry, the pastry becomes coated and the syrup dries and turns white.  Decorate with the cardamom and coconut and serve.  Or, store in a dry airtight container for up to 1 month.

Serves 6-10.

From Mountain Berries and Desert Spice by Sumayya Usmani

Note: To check for double-thread stage without a thermometer, dip a wooden spoon into the mixture, lift it out, and allow it to cool for a few seconds.  Touch the syrup with a clean forefinger, then touch your thumb and finger together and pull apart gently.  Two-thread consistency is when two threads are formed and do not break.  This is also known as soft-ball stage - when a drop of the syrup is dropped into cold water, it forms a soft ball.

Winter Pulau with Beetroot and Cauliflower

300 grams basmati rice
2 1/2 teaspoons garam masala
Canola oil
Salt
600 grams cauliflower (half a big one), broken into bite-size florets
400 grams raw beetroot, peeled and cut into half-inch cubes
300 grams rutabaga (half a small one), or substitute parsnips or carrots, peeled and cut into half-inch cubes
1 1/4 cups coconut milk
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
3/4-inch piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1 green chilli
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large onion, finely sliced
2 handfuls of pomegranate seeds, to top (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425°F.  Wash the rice in a few changes of cold water until the water runs clear, then leave to soak in cold water.
 
In a large bowl, mix the garam masala, 5 tablespoons oil, and 3/4 teaspoon of salt.  Add the vegetables to the bowl and toss to coat.  Spread the vegetables in a single layer on two baking sheets.  Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until tender and caramelized in places.
 
While the vegetables are cooking, make the sauce for the rice.  Put the coconut milk into a blender with the garlic, ginger, chilli, turmeric and 3/4 teaspoon of salt, then blend until smooth.
 
In a large pan with a tight-fitting lid, heat 2 tablespoons of oil on a medium heat.  Fry the onion for 10 minutes, then add the coconut sauce and cook for 8 minutes, stirring frequently.  Add the drained rice with 1 3/4 cups of freshly boiled water, and bring to the boil.  Put on the lid, turn the heat down to a whisper and cook for 20 minutes, until the rice is cooked through.  Take off the heat, fold through the vegetables, pop the lid back on and leave to steam for 10 minutes.  Sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds, if using.
 
Serves 4.
 
From East by Meera Sodha

Thursday, November 12, 2020

Caramelized Tofu with Brussels Sprouts

7-8 ounces extra-firm tofu cut into thin 1-inch segments
A couple pinches of fine-grain sea salt
A couple splashes of olive oil
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup peanuts, toasted and chopped
3 tablespoons natural cane sugar or brown sugar
1/2 pound brussels sprouts, washed and cut into 1/8-inch wide ribbons
 
Cook the tofu strips in large hot skillet with a bit of salt and a splash of oil.  SautĂ© until slightly golden, about 4 minutes.  Add the garlic and peanuts, and cook for another minute.  Stir in sugar.  Cook for another couple of minutes.  Remove from heat.  Scrape the tofu out onto a plate and set aside while you cook the brussels sprouts.
 
In the same pan (no need to wash), add a touch more oil, another pinch of salt, and dial the heat up to medium-high.  When the pan is nice and hot, stir in the shredded brussels sprouts.  Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring a couple times (but not too often) until you get some golden bits, and the rest of the sprouts are bright and delicious.
 
Serves 4.
 
From 101Cookbooks.com

Miso Soup with Napa Cabbage and Udon

1 cup sliced dried shiitake mushrooms (about 1/2 ounce)
2 cups boiling water
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger (from about a 2-inch piece)
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 cups low-sodium vegetable or chicken stock
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 (12-ounce) package udon noodles
1/2 medium napa cabbage (about 12 ounces), cored, halved lengthwise, and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
1/2 cup white miso
4 large eggs (optional)
 
Place the mushrooms in a medium heatproof bowl and add the boiling water. Let sit until the mushrooms have softened, about 12 minutes.
 
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions have softened, about 5 minutes.

Increase the heat to medium high. Add the stock and soy sauce and stir to combine. Using a slotted spoon, remove the mushrooms from their liquid and add them to the saucepan.  

Measure 1 cup of the mushroom liquid, being careful not to include any sediment from the bottom of the bowl, and add it to the saucepan. Bring to a boil. (Discard the remaining mushroom liquid.)
 
Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the mushrooms are tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, add the udon to the pot of boiling water and cook according to the package directions. Drain in a colander and, while stirring, rinse the noodles with cold water until they’re cooled and no longer sticky. Divide all of the udon among 4 deep soup or noodle bowls; set aside.
 
When the mushrooms are ready, add the cabbage to the pan, stir to combine, and simmer until the cabbage is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the miso and stir to combine. Taste and season with salt as needed. Crack the eggs, if using, into the simmering mixture and cook until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny, about 2 to 3 minutes. Divide the soup and eggs among the bowls of noodles, being careful not to break the egg yolks. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

From Chowhound.com